Monday, June 28, 2010

Safari Time

June 20

Ok, so Marta and I may have taken a little vacation. Already, yes, I know but timing wise it couldn’t have been better. We had all of our work in line and were waiting on next steps and after speaking with our coordinator in Ngaramtoni it worked out to be the perfect time. Marta and I packed our bags and headed out on a SAFARI! Woooo! This was a trip we both had said we wanted to find time to do while we were here and last week it stumbled into our laps. To make a long story short, we ran into a friend of a friend in Arusha who organizes Safaris. He had heard that we were coming to Arusha and happened to give us an amazing deal. We were paired with an amazing Swedish couple and were sent on our way. We went to the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater and had the most unbelievable time. We camped in the middle of the Serengeti and pitched a tent overlooking the Crater. Although maybe not the most luxurious way of living, it was completely worth it, as the experience we had was truly unbelievable. Words cannot possible do the trip justice. Our tour guide was phenomenal and provided us with every bit of random knowledge you could possibly imagine about any animal. Not only did we see every animal you could possibly come across in the Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater, we practically touched the majority of them. Abraham, our tour guide, said that we had been one of the luckiest Safari’s he had been on and after speaking with locals on our return you could tell by their response when we told them about our sightings that we had been very lucky. We saw giraffes standing tall and strong, zebras and wildebeest covering the land, baboons and their babies marching down the road, a pack of lions casually walking alongside of our car, leopards lounging in the trees feasting on their most recent catch, hyenas searching for prey, hippos grazing in the water, elephants playfully fighting, a rhino crossing the street, cheetahs basking in the sun, gazelle and impalas running gracefully through the grass and lots of beautifully coloured birds flying overhead. We woke each morning to see the sun rise and cover the Serengeti with shades of pinks and yellows and light up the spectacular scenery of the Crater. It was absolutely unreal!


Overlooking the Serengeti








Sunday, June 27, 2010

Hard Work Pays Off

June 16th

So, another week of frustration and excitement! I have come to realize that it’s just the nature of starting anything new. There are your challenges and your successes. Well this week has brought both.

Our biggest concern going into this week was finding a lab to culture the probiotic strains. Without the probiotic our product is really nothing special. After a long discussion with Dr. Mhando on the weekend and a referral to another possible lab facility we ventured to the hospital to see if we could speak with anyone about the project and potential support. Surprisingly we were able to meet rather quickly on our arrival with one of the head doctors of the hospital. We sat in his office and described the project, the health benefits of the yogurt and the need for a lab and a lab technician. He listened patiently and enthusiastically, however was unable to give us the answers we wanted. The lab at the hospital was just not going to work. A little disappointed, we left and decided it is best to stick with Dr. Mhando. Although for now he is unable to provide us with what we need, he does understand and support the program and he is willing to help moving forward. Back to Dr. Mhando it is!

After another long trek to Ngaramtoni to meet with the future yogurt Mamas to finalize a physical location we were greeted with six empty chairs. No one showed up. We stuck around for a bit and were happy to see two of the women eventually show up bearing ideas for locations. They had taken the assignment to find a location to heart and had produced some very valuable options. We accompanied them into town and took a look at potential kitchen spaces. I am excited to say we officially have a location! YAY! It was very rewarding to see the women participate and even more exciting to see results. Now we must wait on funding.

With a time set up to window shop for equipment and compare prices, things were shaping up.

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Home Sweet Home

June 13th


So after about a week we have finally settled in. We know our way around, we are speaking a little more of the language, we know the walking shortcuts, the cool places to go and we are starting to make friends.


The rest of the week went well. Only a few hiccups and frustrations - to be expected really. The big challenge of the week was picking one village for start up. You see the problem was two local women’s groups from different areas wanted to be the ones to start the kitchen. It is amazing that there is such interest but we only have funding for one kitchen at the moment. So after many back and forth discussions the location was decided – Ngaramtoni – of course the furthest location possible from where we live. So it looks like we will be getting in shape this summer too haha. The women’s group in Darjab Mbili where we live are still very interested in opening a kitchen and are looking themselves for potential funders – who knows maybe we’ll open two kitchens haha.


With a location solidified we needed to find an actual store front where the yogurt could be made, packaged and sold as well as women to operate the kitchen. Through meetings and discussions this past week it looks like we have six interested women and a few possibilities for a location. The women have been tasked with finding a selection of locations for reasonable rent and in the coming week we will meet again and pick a physical location. Once the location is finalized we will be shopping for equipment to get this up and running! Below two pictures of the main street and surrounding area in Ngaramtoni.










Our biggest road block right now is finding a lab and lab technician. On our arrival we had a Doctor in mind who we assumed already knew all about the project and was ready to receive and culture the probiotic. Unfortunately however, as absolutely wonderful as our contact is, he is not accustomed to probiotics and is not able to culture the stain himself. To add to this, Marta and I are certainly not science students so we are not able to offer advice. He has offered usage of this lab, although we are still unsure if it is equipped properly for this project. We also still need a lab technician who is able to deal directly with the probiotic. This will be our biggest challenge moving forward.


As our first week in Arusha came to end, things were looking very good despite some immediate roadblocks – nothing we can’t handle though. Saturday we met some fellow North Americans and British students living in Arusha for a few months, volunteering in various capacities. We all met that evening to watch the USA vs. England World Cup Game. I must say it is quite exciting being in Africa for the World Cup. Although we are not where all the action is happening, the energy that exists here in Tanzania is so much fun to be a part of. Obviously being a member of the common wealth, us Canadians were forced to cheer for England, much to our American neighbours chagrin. It was a fantastic evening despite the tied results of the game. Below, Marta and I with our new friend from Queens University cheering for England.Tonight we just arrived home from the most wonderful dinner with the Doctor who is helping us with the project and his family. He is a very well respected man within the Arusha community and he is just so lovely to be around. His family is just as fantastic and it was so nice to have a family dinner. We talked to him about the project and then watched some of the world cup game. I felt completely at home and a part of the family. A wonderful night, to end our first week in Arusha!

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

A New World

June 9th

So Marta and I have been in Arusha for four days now and what an emotional rollercoaster it has been. One minute everything is amazing, the next you are soaked, cold, muddy, frustrated and wanting more than anything to use a washroom that has toilet paper and flushes.

Monday was one of those days where everything just seemed to be going wrong. First of all it was pouring rain – not enjoyable on the best days, however a bazillion times worse when you are working in a village essentially made of mud. Then we ended up walking what seemed like half way around the world. By the time we arrived home after dark, we were exhausted, starving and caked with mud from head to toe. Here are some pictures from our world. The first shows the outside front of our house with laundry hanging to dry. The second is a view of our street and the third is the garbage pile we walk through everyday to get to town. Although hard at first to understand how people can live this way, it is now home to us. The people are absolutely lovely and it's now normal to us too.


We started the morning nice and early. We met with a local Woman’s group in one area very interested in taking on this project. It was a productive meeting and quite encouraging, then what followed was a long convoluted day of confusion. We had a series of other meetings with various groups in which we were unsure of the purpose. As it was our first day on the job really we figured it was procedure only to find out there was absolutely no point in any of the meetings we had that morning. These meetings were all over town and as we walked from one place to the other we slowly built an exterior layer of mud all over our bodies. Finally we had a few hours of freedom before the next series of meetings so we decided we would venture to find a bank and get our internet sorted out – both tasks proved to be unnecessarily painful. First stop, or should I say first 8 stops, consisted of banks that were either jam packed or not capable of completing the simple task of producing cash for two innocent travellers. Then came internet. Although it was quite easy to purchase it turned out to be the biggest headache to install and set up – more on that later. With very little time to spare we managed to hike back to the area where we had to catch a dala dala (African public transportation – a sketchy 12 person van that is falling apart and jammed with people – quite the experience) to the location of our next meeting about 30 minutes from town. As we were standing around waiting to head home we noticed the most spectacular view behind us - Mount Meru as the backdrop (see picture below). We took a minute and just absorbed our surroundings. It was quite amazing! By the time we finished up there and arrived home it was dark and we had walked perhaps the distance of a marathon.
Everything about this day was frustrating – the weather, the convoluted confusing meetings, the slow pace of service, the tardiness of every meeting, the laid back, indecisive tendency of operations, the continuous haggling by locals. It was quite the day. After a shower of cool water from a bucket I was ready for bed. Then to top everything off, as we snuggled into bed to respond to emails and check in on the rest of the world, the wireless internet drive we purchased for a ridiculously expensive price was of course not working. What a day!

As I fell asleep that night frustrated and discouraged I realized that we were completely amerced in a culture quite different from the one we knew. The day had been filled with many unnecessary procedures and cultural norms that we were just not accustomed to. I realized then that I was going to have to embrace it.

Tuesday was sunny and much warmer. We spent the morning meeting government officials and explaining the project. The afternoon we had some time to ourselves and went into town and relaxed by the pool of a gorgeous, old hotel we stumbled across. We decided to become members of the pool and gym and use it as a place to go and stay active but more importantly shower with warm water and use a toilet that flushes. We spent the rest of the afternoon waiting around to get our internet organized which was terribly frustrating but we are finally all set to go – well on African standards! So we had been five days without internet – what an experience haha How lucky we have it in Canada.

Sunday, June 13, 2010

The Road to Arusha



June 5th, 2010

Well after 18 hours on a jam packed bus, bathroom breaks on the side of the road in the middle of an African dessert, a dead goat and absolutely NO leg room we finally made it to Arusha! We left Mwanza at 6am Saturday morning. The bus depot was packed at this hour and quite intimidating. This was the first time that I felt a little uncomfortable as it was still dark at 5am and there were people everywhere trying to get you to buy something for the trip. It was here that we had heard horror stories of theft and lost luggage. Once settled on the bus, however, all was good. Well for the most part...

The bus trip to Arusha should take about 11 hours on the very best of days, 12 hours usually. We got settled in our seats; jam packed with our backpacks under our feet, worried that our valuables would be stolen. The bus left the depot and we were off. For about the first hour the road was great, slightly bumpy but not bad at all. Then the road went from ok, to pretty bad, to absolutely TERRIBLE in a matter of minutes. We lost any sign of pavement, gravel, or any structured road for that matter and found insanely bumpy craters that created some sort of path that buses chose to drive on. It was wild. Now normally holes that size would not even be attempted to be driven on in Canada, but rather we would take pictures assuming they were beautiful craters belonging to a national park. In Africa, however, that did not stop the bus driver or change the speed. Apparently animals don’t stop them either. About half way through the journey the bus ran right over a goat that didn’t get out of the way quick enough. The sun was setting and we were getting closer to our final destination. As we passed a sign reading “Arusha 40km” our bus made some awful noise, stopped and we were stranded.

The sun went down and we were deserted in pitch black darkness literally in the middle of an African desert. As our driver attempted to fix whatever the problem was the night air became cool. About three hours later another bus FINALLY showed up to pick up the deserted passengers, we were saved. We made it into Arusha about an hour later, arriving around 1:00am. Thankfully we had someone waiting for us at the bus station who took us to our home-stay where we will be living for the rest of the summer.

We arrived and were greeted by an absolutely lovely woman, Mama Setlla, and her daughter who had prepared some food and tea for us. The food was delicious but she had made too much and we were expected to eat it all. This was going to be a challenge – we both have small appetites but it is rude not to eat everything you are served. We managed to get it all down and we showered (or should I say used buckets of cool water to wash) and went to bed. As we put our heads down on the pillow we both were nervous about our new living arrangements. We had been spoiled in Mwanza and had high expectations. We were now in a home living with a family, in a traditional African village, with no running water and expectations for us to eat copious amounts of food. We decided we would go to sleep and re-evaluate in the morning.

We woke up this morning and were greeted with, of course, a massive breakfast of fried pastry. Again, delicious, but after being insisted to eat ALL of them my stomach was not at its prime. The problem too, is not just the amounts, but the fried consistency of most ALL foods here. We dressed and decided we would venture into town and explore a little. Town turned out to be very close and we had the most lovely day just wandering around. The picture below is the Clock Tower in Central Arusha. Apparently it marks the center of East Africa. Arusha is much touristier than Mwanza and so the first thing we noticed was the amount of “Muzungus” here. We are no longer the only white people! Now, don’t get me wrong we were still singled out and haggled by every fifth person walking down the street but it wasn’t as much as a shock as it was in Mwanza. Also we found that many more of the locals spoke much more English than in Mwanza so it was much easier to carry a conversation. We stumbled across an amazing coffee shop with a great washroom (thank goodness) – you can see that my priorities have already shifted. We went to the market and bought some fruit and we found an amazing Maasai tribal market that sells the most amazing fabrics and authentic African dishes, paintings and statues. Marta and both bought matching scarves for what we thought was a steal - $10.00 each – only to find out later by a local that we were totally ripped off. We still have a few things to learn! Haha
We spent the afternoon drafting an action plan and immediate “to do list” to get the project going and we spoke with a local who is able to get us in touch with government officials and help us with marketing the product. Things are looking very optimistic for start-up while we are here this summer and it looks like we may begin advertising as early as two weeks from now.

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

The Start



What a whirl wind it has been! I ran my first marathon, finished up my presidential term at the USC and left for Africa all in one week. I have been here now for five days and already have had the most unbelievable experience.

I left Ontario on Saturday and had a full day layover in Amsterdam. I intended on finding a corner in the airport to set up camp to send emails and finish up some reports for work, but as I was getting off the plane I noticed a friendly face. It turned out that four other students from Western were going to work in Africa as well and were on the same flight. So with this new discovery I decided to forget about emails and venture into Amsterdam with the others. We took the train into central Amsterdam and grabbed some breakfast and wandered around. We went through Anne Fran’s house which was quite an amazing experience. After having read her diaries growing up it was pretty unbelievable to actually tour where the stories took place. It was pouring rain by the time we were finished and we were starting to get tired. We decided to do some work walking and explore a little more. Once the rain let up a little it was quite enjoyable. By the time we were ready to head back to the airport we were all exhausted. We boarded the flight and when I woke up we were about to land in Kenya. The layover in Kenya was quick and before we knew it we were in Mwanza. The sun was pouring down on us as we got off the plane. When we finally got our Tanzanian visas and our luggage we were all very relieved to see a friendly face to greet us at the airport. Marta was there and had taxi’s ready to take us all back to the apartment. We dropped our things off and headed out to explore the town. The students that had arrived a week earlier took us around to get money and phones organized and we grabbed lunch at an amazing pizzeria. Marta and I spent the rest of the afternoon going over what we had to do for the week and how we had to get ready for our trip to Arusha at the end of the week. That evening we went for dinner on Lake Victoria with the entire Western crew. There were 10 of us total from Western and it was nice to have some time all together. We ate fish, watched the sun set, had an amazing campfire and played some pool. We spent the evening with some other students working in Mwanza. Below - all Western interns together.



It was the perfect first day, although not all what I was expecting. The apartment was much nicer than what I had imagined and I was not expecting to know people right off the bat, especially people that knew how to speak English. I’m not 100% sure how to articulate what I was expected but it wasn’t that. Since the program has developed over the past few years Western students have built up a strong community in Mwanza. There is a support group of people to connect with who are willing to show you around and help you settle in. It was nice having an overlap with outgoing interns who were able to show us the ropes. It was almost too easy. I feel like Arusha may be a bit more challenging as we will be the first to establish any sort of support system.

Tuesday we woke up early to get a good start on the day and headed to the kitchen to meet the yogurt Mamas and get a better idea of the daily operations. The kitchen is located on top of a hill, at the end of a market road. To get to the kitchen you must pass stands selling food and clothes. This was my first real experience feeling “different”. As we walked up the hill everyone was staring, some were pointing and others were yelling “Mazungu” which is Swahili for “foreigner”. At first you laugh and keep walking but as the days passed I realized this pointing and yelling would never end. It’s actually quite frustrating at times. You cannot possibly ever fit in solely based on the colour of your skin. No matter how much Swahili you know or how hard you try to fit in you will always be known as a “Mazungu”. Most of the time it is not used as a derogatory term but rather just a term describing the obvious, but it becomes an identity.

When we arrived at the kitchen I got to meet the Mamas and see how the yogurt was made. I even got to taste some! Despite the sour taste and lumpy texture in comparison to North American yogurt, I quite enjoyed it. We spent some time there with the Mamas but found it hard to engage because of the communication barrier. The kitchen itself was quite impressive – very clean and organized.

In the evening we went to a local tribal community and were entertained as we watched some traditional dance performances, one involving a MASSIVE snake. It was amazing! The last dance they invited us to come up and follow along. As we danced the children of the tribe were losing it! They thought it was hilarious that a bunch of white girls were up dancing. It was quite funny. For dinner we went to a local pub around the corner by our apartment and I tried Ugali for the first time. It is a very common dish that African’s eat all the time essentially made of flour and water and used to dip in sauce or broth from meat or fish. It was good, not very exciting, and more of a filler than anything, but fun to try. As we ventured back to the apartment, now very dark out, we realized we did not have a key to get in. We knew that the housekeeper, Margaret, would have a key so we took a taxi to where she lived and had people help us find her. This was quite the experience. Margaret lives on the hillside around central Mwanza. Her neighbourhood was a mix of small stucco houses with tin roofs and mud huts. Only a few houses had electricity and in the dark it was very hard to see around. It is in a place like that, that one realizes just how lucky we have it. I was very happy to have been able to see the real side of Mwanza, not the apartment and lifestyle the Western interns experience while working for the summer – quite a difference between the two. Once safe and sound in the apartment Marta and I stayed up to the wee hours of the morning to finish the business plan, budget and price analysis for start-up in Arusha. It was a late night but very productive. Wednesday we woke up early to finish number crunching and finalize the start up manual as we had to get it printed and photocopied to be ready for the Arusha teams’ arrival later that night. What a process it was to print and photocopy! An easy task in Canada, like printing, turned out to be the most painfully slow and excruciatingly sluggish task in Africa. It took us three hours to print 40 pages and photocopy them twice to have a total of three booklets. A task so straight-forward and simple required unnecessary amounts of energy and time. It was definitely a good test of patience. In the meantime we enjoyed cooked bananas from across the street. They were UNREAL and are my new official favourite food.

The Arusha team, comprised of the coordinator from Youth Self Empowerment Programme (YSEP) and three Mamas arrived late Wednesday night. We picked them up from the bus station, grabbed some dinner and took them to their hotel. Thursday and Friday were all business as we took the Arusha team to the yogurt kitchen to learn to make yogurt and ask the Mamas questions (Marta and I with Arusha team at Yogurt kitchen in Mwanza), went over the budget and business plan, took them to the lab to learn about the probiotic strain, took them to The Kivolini Women’s Organization (the founding funders of the kitchen in Mwanza) to speak with the executive director about the start up process in Mwanza and took them to the market so they could buy some fish. It was a full and busy two days. We are getting up early tomorrow to get on the 6am bus to head back to Arusha to spend the rest of the summer and get this kitchen up and running!